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With HB 09-1091 carbon monoxide detectors will be required in any new or existing single family dwelling or the dwelling unit(s) of an existing multi-family dwelling offered for sale or transfer on or after July 1, 2009, that has a fuel burning heater, appliance, fireplace, or an attached garage. 

 Rental properties will be subject to these requirements when there is a change of tenant.

Carbon monoxide alarms are to be placed no further than ten feet (10') from the entrance to each room lawfully used for sleeping purposes.

 38-45-104 subsection (5) allows the alarm(s) to be installed within twenty five feet (25') from any fuel-burning heater or appliance, fireplace, or garage where there is a centralized alarm system or other mechanism for a responsible person to hear the alarm at all times in a multi-family dwelling used for rental purposes. A carbon monoxide alarm "means a device that detects carbon monoxide and that produces a distinct, audible alarm, is listed by a nationally recognized, independent produce-safety testing and certification laboratory.  Carbon monoxide alarms can be battery powered, plug into a dwelling's electrical outlet and has a battery back-up, or is connected to an electrical system via an electrical panel; and may be combined with a smoke detecting device if the combined unit produces an alarm, or an alarm and voice  signal that clearly differentiates between the two hazards.

 

Existing single-family dwellings, every dwelling unit of an existing multi-family

building or any building with rooms lawfully used for sleeping and have a fuel-burning heater or appliance, a fireplace, of an attached garage are required to have carbon monoxide alarms when any of the following occurs.       

 

 

1.      The unit is offered for sale or transfer on or after July 1, 2009.

2.      A building permit is issued for new construction after July 1, 2009.

3.      When there is a change of occupancy in a rental unit after July 1, 2009

 

Anatomy of Multiwire Branch Circuit
s 210.4 2008 NEC
April 15, 2009

 

Multi wire branch circuits, same old confusion-different day.

 

 It was clear in the past (pre 2008 NEC Code) that the intent of the Code was to prevent personnel from getting shocked on multi wire circuits that were on the same yoke of a device.  (Example:  When a multi wire circuit was installed for, say a dishwasher and a disposal on one receptacle.  The dishwasher is on phase A and the disposal is on phase B with a common neutral and the tab on the hot side is broken off.)  Clearly, if there is not a tie bar at the beginning of the circuit, one side. side  “A” or the other side “B” could remain energized, thus causing a potential from hot to neutral.  I believe we can agree that this is not a good scenario.

 

Multi wire branch circuits that originate in a breaker panel and split at some point, usually at a junction box or receptacle, have minimal exposure to shock, if wired to Code.   300.13(B) States that, “in multi wire branch circuits, the continuity or a grounded conductor “neutral” shall not depend on device connections such as lamp holders, receptacles, and so forth, where removal of such device would interrupt the continuity.”   In simple terms a splice with a pigtail needs to be made at the point where multi wire circuit is split.

 

A more important problem with multi wire circuits is when the neutral is lost between the breaker panel and the splice at the point the circuits split off.  In 120/240v, 120/208v single or three phase multi wire circuits the loss of the neutral connection can result in burning out equipment on one or more of the circuits. This happens when there is no neutral path, circuit one and circuit two have something plugged, both items are needing a path back to ground, instead the disconnected neutral is common between the two phases thus causing  line to line voltage to be present and burning out everything that is connected on those two (or three circuits) as the case may be.  Items that were not switched on at the time would probably not be damaged.

 

All circuits, whether simple two wire of multi wire, have a potential of shock from neutral to ground.  If the neutral is lost, even at the breaker panel, and a light or any other piece of equipment is calling for electricity in order to be energized there is a potential of being shocked, neutral to ground. 

 

In my opinion, getting shocked is more likely an open neutral than a “multi wire branch circuit”.

 

For now I guess we have to live with it, but hopefully the Code makers will stop guessing, learn how multi wire branch circuits really work, put all articles pertaining to multi wire branch circuits in the same section of the code, and do away with tie bars in the next Code.

 

Larry Huckleberry

Master Electrician and Electrical Contractor  

http://www.denver-electrician.info

 

 

 

©2009

Receptacles in Bathrooms, garages, kitchens, and outdoors are all wired on ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) breakers or a GFCI receptacles.  Swimming pools, hot tubs, and jetted tubs are also wired on GFCI circuits. 

Since the introduction of the GFCI in the 1971 National Electrical Code countless electrocutions and injuries have been averted.  

GFCI CIRCUITS SAVE LIVES and should never be removed or otherwise tampered with.  


What they look like.

GFCI receptacles trip when there is a fault  of 4 to 6/1000ths of one amp. To reset a GFCI receptacle you push in on the reset button (top button) until you hear a click, if it doesn't reset something you have plugged in is probably the problem.  Unplug items until it resets and stays energized.  Even moisture in the receptacle can cause it to trip.